Categories
Books Writing

New Novella and EOM chapter… coming soon.

I did a thing.

And it is not great. I don’t feel good about it. But that was the whole point. And I’m proud of myself for doing a not great thing.

I published an ebook. The first thing I’ve ever put out into the world that people will have to pay for. 

I’d say it is pretty typical as far as first attempts go, in that it’s mostly rubbish.

As my brother always says, the first step to getting good at something, is being crap at something.

So yay! I’ve taken the first step in self-publishing!

(For those who missed the post from a few weeks ago: I decided to write a novella (a trilogy of novellas, actually) just for my EOM readers. Original fiction that will hopefully be enough like EOM to get and keep their interest, but different—quite different— in that they will be shorter and sweeter. A modern fantasy novella (series) with a guaranteed happy ending. With any luck, this can be a stepping stone from my fan fiction to my original fiction? An experiment to see if this is something I can actually do.)

And as far as experiments go, it wasn’t a total failure. I wanted to see if I could write a novella in 10 days. And I found that I could! It just took another 18 days to get my act together and get it up on Amazon. There is definitely room for improvement–of course in writing–but also in formatting and navigating rigmarole involved in e-publishing. I kept dragging my feet on learning how to put it up. In the end, I put in the minimal effort required because the more frustrated I became, the more I wanted to just forget the whole thing and not bother with it at all. Terrible, I know. So, we’re going with the logic that a bad book is better than no book? That’s probably not true. But, it’s what I need to tell myself in order for me to actually start making a career of writing.

I write this Thursday evening. When you read this, the ebook will be available, and I will be off in the woods, putting a roof on my tiny cabin, far away from the internet or any kind of cell service, so I cannot check the stats and be immediately disappointed that no one has seen it or bought it yet.  

Rather than look at amazon obsessively when I get home from building, I will make some tea, read some poetry, and refuse to open my computer until the weekend when I publish another EOM chapter. Wish me luck in not looking at my KDP account for at least three weeks. (Well that failed. It is not even three pm on the same day and I am on my computer, posting EOM and checking stats and doing other things. Sigh… so weak.)

That being said, if you do read and like it, please review. That would help me out bunches. You can get it here.

(But look at his lovely cover my brother did. Quite possibly the part of the book with which I am most pleased.)

Categories
Writing

What I’m working on (new project!)

What am I working on?

Obviously, I’m working on EOM again. But after I published the latest chapter, I decided to write a novella (a trilogy of novellas, actually) just for my EOM readers. Original fiction that will hopefully be enough like EOM to get and keep their interest, but different—quite different— in that they will be shorter and sweeter. A modern fantasy novella (series) with a guaranteed happy ending. With any luck, this can be a stepping stone from my fan fiction to my original fiction?


I started it Monday, and I’m about halfway through (the first one) and it’s been fun to write so far. It will obviously need editing and redrafting. If all goes well, it could be out (on Amazon) at the end of August/the start of September, depending on how my graphic designer friend gets on with the cover. (And she can’t start until I’ve finished at least the first draft, so, that’s still on me.)

Something about publishing chapter by chapter, or novella at a time, makes it easier. It’s not instant gratification by any means. Still, it allows you to put something out there and feel a sense of accomplishment. Whereas with a novel, you might be working on it for a year with nothing to show (the world) for it, and the longer it takes, the longer you have to fall out of love with it or even grow to hate it.

I have my own ideas for a few novella series, but I wonder, is it a terrible idea to take suggestions? I would like to know what people enjoy reading now, and I want to practice writing in different genres. (However, I lack the self-motivation to just do it without any incentive/accountability.) Something to ponder.

After I post this little ramble to the blog, I’m going to write as much on the new novella as I can. It’s at that stage where the writing of it is a bit addicting (the way EOM used to be). So, I’m eager to get to it. In fact, I shall end the post here.

~K

Categories
Travel Writing

Writing with and without a routine

As evidenced by my previous post, I was in New Orleans (fully vaccinated and wearing a mask in all public spaces, for those who may be concerned.) And writing EOM was…. Easy? Perhaps that’s the wrong word. But it just flowed. It felt like, “yes, you are in a new place, you should be writing this.” Things that had me stuck at home just resolved while I was in a new place. It felt wonderful.

Though only writing while I’m travelling is not a sustainable plan. I cannot travel enough to write all that I want. 

Hence the routine.

Every book on writing I’ve ever read has stressed the importance of making writing a habit, incorporating it as a part of your routine. So, I’ve done my best to establish one, and, surprise surprise, I’ve been more productive!

My writing routine is:

When travelling – just writing every day at any time, because everything is stimulating and it’s seems all I want to do is write.

When I’m not travelling, I try to leave the house by 7am (this was the case before the pandemic and now again since I’m vaccinated.) Libraries and cafes work best. Monday through Thursday mornings I work on Where Power Lies, (which is currently over 70,000 words and a little more than half-way done. No doubt it will take lots of cuts and redrafting editing in future, but not today!

I’ve started putting my phone on Do Not Disturb, that rather than just silent for my morning hours. It’s too easy to get derailed. Just as one gets into a flow, one is brought out of it again by a text or a news notification. Already doing just this has upped my word count.

Another part of the routine, (inspired by Rachel Aaron’s book 2k to 10k) is to take five minutes before I start drafting, to write out in a notebook what the scene(s) I am about to write will be like. It only takes few sentences, and it really focusses my mind. 

Fridays (like today!) are for EOM and perhaps also a blog post, if I have anything at all to say. (And it appears that today I do.)

Yes, I need to keep to a routine. It will allow me to complete projects and get more writing done. 

But nothing will compare with the joy of writing in  new place. I feel I write my most and best when I’m experiencing a place for the first time. I’m more observant, I make connections, ask questions, and am just filled with a general sense of wonder and curiosity. And that of course, is immensely helpful in the creative process. 

I have plans for a vacation this autumn for Morocco and Spain, which Delta variant is seriously menacing. The intention was (and still is, for the moment) to write fun shorts while I’m away, based in the location I happen to be! I’m really looking forward to those projects. My future travels will inspire a little series of stories that I hope to put up on Amazon and other e-book platforms. I just want to put something out there. Get it over with. Break the barrier and start sharing my work, even if it’s rubbish. 

Oddly, I do not have this hangup about fan-fiction. For some reason, fan-fiction readers seem much kinder and go into a story wanting to enjoy it. I know any readers for novels and novellas I e-publish will never be as wonderful as fanfiction readers. (Unless they are my fan fiction readers. Would I be so lucky.) But I can’t let that stop me from putting my work into the world… (anymore.)

So the plan is:

1. Post a new chapter of EOM next Friday (yay!) 

2. Finish the first draft of Where Power Lies by the end of August (a stretch goal, to be sure, especially considering that I also want to finish building the cabin by then, too). And, 

3. (Travel gods willing) write story or two during my vacation, and publish them as little e-books (probably in November? An untraditional but worthy NaNoWriMo project.) 

So there. I’ve put my routines and goals out there in the world, and now I can be held accountable.

Do you have a routine? Any tips or tricks you’d like to share?

Categories
Books Travel Writing

Writing in NOLA

July 22, 2021

Greetings, from New Orleans!

After half an hour of ambling down the Mississippi River, past the Audubon Aquarium and the famous Natchez steamboat, I wandered into the French Quarter and finally found a suitable café for writing on Decatur street. Unlike Café du Monde and Beignet Café (also on Decatur street), this one has indoor seating, air-conditioning, and is not full of tourists. I’m the only customer here, matter o fact. So I’ve finally found a place to stop and write (and stop sweating.)

There are plenty of windows here. In fact, I think they are actually sealed up old doors, as if once this cafe, like many of the others, sat open to the street. But despite the abundance of windows, there is no view to speak of. The glass, framed in a dark wood, is entirely covered in condensation– a result of the battle between the 100-degree heat without and the 60-degree air conditioning within.

I just noticed, the chairs have holes in the backs in the shape of a steaming teacup in its saucer. I want one. The booths of maroon leather match the chair seats.

I say booths, there are only the two; it is not a large café, might seat a dozen people. Fortunately, for the moment, I have the place to myself.

I am also sipping my first cup of caffeine in 22 days. (A café au lait for the record, which is not only the traditional way to prepare coffee in New Orleans but also my preference anywhere I go. Of course, they got it right. They never do at home, alas.) I’m not cheating on my pact with S; I was given dispensation. He agrees the circumstances are extenuating. We both agree that 23 days without caffeine is as good as 30 but not as good as 0. We were mad to attempt it to begin with. (I needn’t mention that July has not been my most productive month, as I (along with many ADHDers, self-medicate with caffeine.)

But back to the café. I was sat in one of the two leather armchairs, but the direct blasts of cold ar were too much for me. For the first two minutes I sat there, it was nice to commune with the little succulents in a bowl on the side table. But longer than that, the sweat started to turn to ice on my skin. 

I can still appreciate the artistic industrial-style hanging lamp fixtures and the exposed wooden beams from my seat at a table.

In any case, it’s time I stopped describing the café I’m going to write in and actually get to writing.

EOM or WPL?

(Later: EOM, as it turned out, even though my usual day for it is Friday.)

July 23, 2021

Finally made it to Baldwin & Co. This was the one real place on my list of places to visit, especially while I was here, apart from Café du Monde, for my sister’s sake. (I did manage a visit later with A after she got in. We shared beignets, and yes, got powdered sugar everywhere. The music playing was lovely. Everyone, please tip buskers. Being an artist is difficult, be it musician or writer, painter or potter. But to spend hours working, essentially for free, and only making what people feel like giving. Tragically, this is often nothing), and in this heat? Please feed the artists if you enjoy their art!)

Wow, that was quite the digression. 

Back to Baldwin & Co. Here I am! Definitely worth the hour’s walk and the three blisters I collected getting here (a first for these shoes. Alas. I may have worn them out at last.)

I’ve bought a splendid volume of poetry. Read half of it right here at the table before writing this. Vulnerable AF by Tarriona (Tank) Ball, local slam poet, author, and musician. Please do give her debut collection a read. 

This café-cum-bookshop itself, though having a limited selection of books, is spectacular. A larger than life portrait of James Baldwin is painted on book spines, and a mural of Langston Hughes next to his poem I, Too takes up a whole wall.

And they have a podcast studio in the back that you can rent. The walls are glass, and you can see people speaking into microphones. I wonder what they are saying.

The floor is part light wood that merges halfway across the room with black hexagonal tiles that climb up the coffee bar as well. The walls are brick and light wood, the same as the floor, pillars and exposed ceiling beam. 

Baldwin & Co. is so well designed. I am impressed. Moved even.

For I think my favourite thing about this place is that all the books they stock face outward on the shelves, displaying each and every cover. Such a respectful way to display books–giving every work its due, not choosing which precious few covers get to be seen while the rest anonymously cram together spine to anonymous spine. You can tell that the owners of this place are proud of their writers. 

This place is an homage, and one can feel it the moment you walk in.

The whole of this city feels much the same.

(I’m not great at taking photos when I’m out and about. But here are a couple that I managed.)

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A live oak with resurrection ferns growing on them. The ferns can often look brown and dead, but after a rain they ‘come back to life’ as you can see here.
Not only atmospheric, these gas lanterns are iconic, and a distinctive feature of the city.

Until next time…

Categories
Writing

A degree in Creative Writing?

Some people who read this are probably writers. Or are considering being writers. And a lot of people ask me about my MA in Creative Writing. Did I like it? Was it worth it?

The short answer: no.

Well, yes, I did like it, but no, it wasn’t worth it.

Unless you are absolutely financially secure (or you live in a magical place where university is free or cheap, and doesn’t cost over $20,000 a year) and know you don’t want to do anything else in the next year or two but write. Or if you don’t know what you want to do with your life because you haven’t sorted out what you want to be when you grow up (no matter what numerical age you are) and want a seeming-legitimate way to pass the time while you find out (and write). 

Even then, I wouldn’t recommend it.

I confess, that was me. All of the above. 

I have no doubt there are exceptional programs out there that have been a tremendous help to some. But I argue that you can take online classes at a fraction of the cost and inconvenience, join a writers group, and you will get a comparable experience. A better one, if your group is dedicated and consistent.

I adored my classmates. To this day we keep in touch and talk about writing. But I think I would have had just as good a time, if not better, if the twelve of us had just been in a critique group and cut the profs out of the process entirely.

The male profs were disinterested, though I had two lovely lady profs who seemed to actually care, and whose classes actually imparted some knowledge and creative challenge. But the leader of the programme and the other main lecturers were there not because they like encouraging writers or discussing the brilliance of all kinds of fiction, but because they could not make ends meet as a writer. 

No shame in that, of course. Most of us can’t. But to take our your bitterness on your students because you consider yourself an under-appreciated high-brow author and you have to critique a fantasy novel or “chic lit”. (The work in question wasn’t chic lit, but the student who wrote it was a woman and it included a female protagonist in a modern setting. But it was far from humorous or light-hearted. It was an intense and moving story about two women, one homeless, one lost and wanting to give her life meaning and she tries to do that by ‘helping’ the homeless woman. In the end, nothing changed.) Still, it was treated as unsubstantial ‘women’s writing’, and dismissed by staff.) I don’t need to say here, surely, that there is nothing at all the matter with chic-lit. (Misogyny and racism in publishing deserves it’s own post, so I won’t go on about that here, other than to say, yes, it certainly was an issue in my creative writing MA in the UK.)

But speaking of chic-lit, I have plans for a novella or three.  And I’m quite excited about them.

Fun fact: After completing my own creative writing programme, I wrote a long and complaining email to the head creative fiction prof (not about the programme. That, I had done in my end of term paper. Unsurprisingly, they didn’t like ‘An MA in Creative Whiting’ a treatise on how all the authors we studied were white, male, and usually dead).

No, it was a travel essay of sorts, on a topic he wrote a lot about, so I shared it with him

He responded (based on this one email) that apparently I was better at non-fiction. 

This coming from a man who had been reading my fiction all year.

Ouch. 

Not all courses will be like this, naturally. You may have interested teachers who are generous with their time and their commentary, who will do their best to advise you, who encourage genre-writing and exploring boundaries between instead of sticking to what is considered ‘high-brow’. But more than instruction and advice, one benefits most from reading reading reading, writing practice, and critique. And you can do that without a degree. 

In fact, I was so bludgeoned by my course that I didn’t write for a long time after that. Others from my MA and people who were enrolled in completely different programmes experienced the same thing, that it stole the joy from writing. The burn-out is real, and you come away knowing what good writing is, not yet able to achieve it, and too demoralised to continue trying. Quite a demotivating situation. Most writers I’ve talked to on average take a year or two to start writing again after their course.

Having a group, however, is wonderful and essential. People, or even just one other person, who will motivate you to keep writing when you don’t want to, or commiserate with you when you can’t seem to get through a section of your novel, or who will go on artist dates with you to a museum or a park, or just to a cafe to scribble. Someone who will give you honest feedback and who likes reading the kind of stuff you like writing. (I wish for the sake of a few friends that I enjoyed sci-fi, but I do not. I know this is a personal failing, not a shortcoming of the genre. But I am not the target audience for their work, so I’m not their ideal reader.)

So cultivate a connection with other creative people, be accountable to each other, and keep working. At your own pace, yes, but keep working. 

Categories
Travel Writing

Why I’ve been gone so long

DEPRESSION! 

That’s the short answer. But like most simple answers, it excludes a lot of important nuance. And the complicated truth is much more involved.

But yes, I stopped writing, I think, because I stopped travelling. Travelling and writing for me go hand in hand. If I’m travelling, I am writing. But in 2016 I went back to uni, getting a new undergrad degree in Economics. I could have made some time for travel (if I had the funds, but I didn’t) but I was trying to hurry through my course as quickly as possible, as I wasn’t getting any younger and gave zero fucks about the college experience. So I clocked an average 25 hours a semester, taking classes between terms, and taking classes at other nearby unis to transfer to my uni later (because my uni has a cap on how many classes you can take in a semester, even though I got special permission to take 21 hours, it still wasn’t enough to complete my degree in two years.)

Not to toot my own horn (who am I kidding, that’s exactly what I’m doing) I came out with an almost perfect GPA, ruined only by B in calculus….(grrrrr.) My confines to the ivory tower kept me in the United States, and worse a constraint was my time, which was given over completely to finishing the degree.

I continued immediately with a masters in economics, going to London for an MSc in Global Economic Governance and Policy. While I was there I did almost no travel. Only a day trip to France for my anniversary (just the ferry to Calais for crepes and walking along the beach) then back to London to take an exam the following day.  And throughout all this schooling, I was doing a lot of academic writing, but none creatively. 

Then, after I finished school I immediately landed a dream job. A wonderful opportunity with a promising future career! It was mostly WFH with a London based charity/think tank on a project to improve lifetime outcomes of girls in Africa and the Middle East. Exactly the kind of work I wanted to do. And I even got to travel for work. To Ethiopia and to Jordan, and the potential to travel to Rwanda and more! But those work trips were so busy that I didn’t have time to see Addis Ababa at all, nor Amman. Which… was fine. I still had a flexible enough schedule and was finally making enough money to be able to travel without extreme budgeting. (Ramen noodle meals and taking a piece of fruit and some bread from hostels’s breakfasts, putting it into a napkin and secreting it into my rucksack, to have for lunch.)

So, I was at a place where I had the time and the money to travel!

But… the pandemic…

I had been in Amaan for a month when the travel bans were announced and I decided to go back to the US. Where I stayed, stuck, to this very day.

The data collection stopped in Jordan the day I left, and without new incoming data, I didn’t have much of a job to do other than the most basic and mundane of tasks that grew painful to even contemplate. At one point I remember thinking, “If I were dead, I wouldn’t have to do this.”

I took that as a sign and left my job because I assumed that wasn’t a indication of excellent mental health. But appointments with psychologists were booked up for months, and leaving my job actually helped.

Turns out I have severe depression and ADHD and my brain in the pandemic was dangerously under-stimulated, made even worse by the tedium of what my job had become, which rapidly depleted what little dopamine I had until I had none left. Quitting was the right choice.

I rested.

I spent more time out of doors.

I started treatment.

I started to write again.  It was crap, but it was something.

I also took some online classes.

Because of a shoulder injury, I couldn’t do most forms of fun, so walking was the thing. I walked. I wrote. I read. 

I am still walking, and writing and reading.   

But now that I’ve been vaccinated, and it looks like the world might be opening up slightly, I mean to make my way through it. 

I have no doubt unrealistically ambitious plans about my writing from now on, but still, I have several projects and deadline goals and plan to pursue them. I won’t share them just yet.

But know I know my brain needs the stimulation of travel to thrive, and it isn’t just a quirk of my personality. So I shall travel and I shall write.

I’ll have to start small.

But that’s still a start.

Categories
Books Travel Writing

Balkan Beginnings

June, 2015
Albania

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I wrote a very silly poem (the only kind of which I am capable) about my first impressions of the country’s capitol: combining two of my favourite things: travel and neologistic collective nouns.

Tirana:

In a confusion of collective nouns

 

 

The Marrakech of Eastern Europe

with its clattering of cafés

on every street

patronised, each and every, by

idles of old men

collusions of couples and

intrigues of lady friends

despite it being a working day.

An entropy of motorists

in Skanderbeg Place

play chicken with

a boldness of pedestrians

(huddles or muddles in wintertime)

and on Hoxha Thasim alone is

a bobbing of fruit stands

a swish of shops: mostly second-hand

and surprisingly, to the poetess at any rate

an onomatopoeia of pet shops.

Poor pups pant in their cages

As people sweat out their time

pleasantly ignoring the

haunting of pill box bunkers,

(steel casings with a urine-reek)

sitting in cafés with names like

Dublin

Oslo

New York

Havana

collectively pretending

they are anywhere

but Tirana

Obviously it did not include my trip up to the mountain in a cable car, my appreciation for Albania writer Ismail Kadare and his talented translator, (both seen here)
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nor my trip to the old town of Kruje, its castle, craft merchants and that jerk who followed me around, pretending to be a tour guide half the time and asking to see my breast the rest, who, after I couldn’t take the harassment (he called them compliments) I turned around to go back to the modern town, cutting my trip short. I won’t lie, it mostly ruined my day. I went to a café and tried to write, but wasn’t managing much so I decided to write my frustrations and call it a blog. Which brings me to poor traveller guilt. The only benefit tourists bring is money. A poor tourist (me) who buys no souvenirs from craftspeople who obviously need to make a living is worse than useless. Do we, as tourists, invaders and consumers of cultures, have an obligation to spend money on these things? Is it my duty as a tourist? I feel yes, but my pocketbook says no.

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“Thanks, I’m privileged enough to travel here but not enough to purchase any of your lovely things, sorry.”

When they say tourism helps local economies, they don’t mean my kind of shoestring tourism- making a 50 cent pack of soup last 2 days. I don’t think my splurging once a day on 100 leke tea really helps the economy.

Note: the barman, speaking in German (our only shared tongue) just said I look like a writer. Thank you, barman for improving my day, even though anyone scribbling away with notebook and pen looks like a writer, but all the same, you’ve given me a positive note to end this entry.

Categories
Books Travel Uncategorized Writing

Ode to an Alphasmart

October 4, 2014

Currently Reading: This Blinding Absence of Light by Tahar Ben Jalloun

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(The book mentions this very spot: Jemaa el Fna, in Marrakech)

I’ve been horribly lazy in keeping up with the blog. I was a week in Tangier (my hostel perpetually reeked of hashish, but was right next to the tomb of Ibn Battuta!) and am now in Marrakech for week, where I’ve found a good café to write in, and someone to play chess with.

 

October 10th

Now in Essaouira for a week. The hostel is criminal. Not because there is no soap in the bathroom (though it is concerning) but because of this.

 

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Using a book as a wedge to keep a bed steady. Bad form.

 

 

It’s a bit of a mission in each city—finding a newsagent that has English newspapers, or French newspapers that report international news but I’ve managed so far.

 

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Why bother with newspapers at all in this day and age, when the internet is everywhere?

For the same reason I write this on my Alphasmart.

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BECAUSE THE INTERNET IS EVERYWHERE.

And I am weak.

So weak…

 

If I read news online, then there are links to other things, also interesting and relevant. And those interesting things have links to other things equally interesting, and less relevant, and on and on down the rabbit hole I go till I’m watching videos of baby horses splashing around in paddling pools and I realise I’ve been on the internet for 3 hours and have read only a few worthwhile things (and several lists about signs you are in your 30s.)

I’m so easily distractible, and when I just want to read the news, it’s safer just to read a hypertext-less newspaper, made of actual paper. Just as when I want to get some writing done, I do it on paper or on a internet-less machine.

And for those of you who don’t know what an AlphaSmart is, voila.

So, it’s not curmudgeonly antipathy to technology that keeps me devoted to the old-fashioned, it’s the desire to be at least semi-productive.

 

Categories
Books Travel Writing

Writing Spaces – Writing Places… Letter the Sixth

August 2nd

Dear Sean,

 

“In the time when the coffeehouses of Budapest were differentiated not by their price lists, their coffee, and their cold meats, but exclusively by their “literary” tendencies, he too used to sit with his pale face in the baroque gallery of the New York like a faint but ever more brilliant star in the literary firmament.”

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It’s a quote from Kornél Esti by Dezsó Kostelyáni. I think I mentioned it in the last letter. It’s what got me excited to go to this writerly place. But of course, it’s not a writerly place anymore.

 

Kostelyáni’s Budapest is not today’s Budapest, Hemingway’s Paris is not today’s Paris. The literary haunts have vanished. The days of the writers’ places are over, writing places gone.

 

Or should I say, writer places have gone. Any place is a writing place. Any café, park, bar, tree stump will do, obviously. But places like The New York have lost their literariness. The New York (in the Erzébet Ring Road) used to be a haunt of writers and artists so that not only did it cater specially for the impecunious tastes of its literary clientele, it also provided paper, pens and ink. A “dog’s tongue” (kutantelv) was a piece of paper one could order for a writerly jot.

 

A special cheap dish of cold meats for writers called The irótál, “writer’s plate,” was a specialty of the New York, an inexpensive plate of cold meats, salami, cheese, etc, served only to writers. The kis-iro-dalmi, “small literary” was a reduced version for the even less well off.

 

It’s no longer on the menu, and so far I haven’t yet dare try to order it. The place is completely posh now, retaining its fin de siècle grandiosity but using it as an excuse to overcharge its almost exclusively foreign visitors, among whom I must count myself.

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Still, I go there often enough, get a seat near as I can to the pianist and eat my expensive but filling bread and goulash. (I don’t eat for the rest of the day, partly because I don’t feel hungry, also because I can’t afford to.)

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This is rampaging and misplaced sentimentality, I know. I need to find a new shabby corner of Budapest that will serve me soup for a quarter of the price that won’t charge me three euro just for sitting down, where I can sit and read Hungarian poetry (or write about reading Hungarian poets) and have a more legitimate experience. Fortunately, I seem to run into students of Hungarian literature. My first day back in Budapest I met a guy studying Hungarian literature and philosophy at the University. I didn’t know he was studying it at the time, he was just one of the solicitous citizens, determined to feel sorry for me about the leg, but the following day the truth came out and it will help me with my research… which is less and less to do with my portfolio and more for my personal treasure trove of knowledge.

 

 

 

10,000 words. I shall have to start all over, I think. I tell myself I’ll begin as soon as I’ve got my apartment. We’ll see if that’s so, or if I’ll find a new excuse to put it off.

 

And turns out, I’m not as depressed as I hoped I’d be here. I’m quite mobile and have been reading about a book a day. My goodness, Embers (the title translated from the Hungarian word for when a candle has burned down to the very bottom) by Maira Sandor is going on the list of Favourite Books of All Time.  And I am not even going to bother recommending it to you, or probably to any one. I shall greedily keep it to myself. Also, I don’t feel like it has much universal appeal. Two old men, former best friends, meeting after 41 years of being apart, discussing what happened that last night they saw each other, the day of a hunt. I don’t know, to me it reads like some dark fairy story. It has hints of DuMaurier, in that much of the book is visiting the past.

 

August 11,

 

Many many days since I’ve written, not just to you, but anything. For a while I as simply absorbed in the reading of Hungarian classics (by the way, I’ve bought 15 new volumes, one is such an enormous hardback anthology of modern poetry I’ll have to buy a new case just to transport it and the rest), then after that I spent many days stuck to my computer, absorbed in the news and growing more and more despondent. I spoke to mother about how useless I am, that, had I stuck with my earlier 2009 plan of studying migration and refugee studies of Africa and the Middle East, I might very well be doing something useful by now. But I’m not. I’m vagabonding around Eastern Europe, being completely self-indulgent. It’s a blow to hear that a former home is being marched on. Of course, it’s nothing to what those living there are going through, but I feel so helpless and useless.

 

About a week I did nothing but read, begging pardon for the unfair adjective, trashy novels about Napoleonic dragons and fantasy queens and girl assassins and watch the latest batman trilogy all in one go.

 

Pulled myself slowly out of it. Today I’m back to Hungarian classics, and even, wonder of wonders miracle of miracles, I even started (started) my portfolio which is due in exactly a month from today.

 

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In a little red moleskin (I’ve had to buy more since coming here) I’ve pencilled in questions to put to our mother when I see her next. One of them is, will you tell me, when the time comes, what it’s like to see your own child go grey? I am sitting on the upper floor of a café just off Andrassy street. It’s summer and (as heat rises) no one else is up here but me. Down below at one of the tables outside though is a pair drinking espresso. A man and a woman. The woman is older, her hair gone white and she’s balding at the top (something I feel a bit bad about because I probably would never have noticed such a rude thing were it not for my particular vantage). The man’s hair is a pretty steel grey on top of a darker black. He still has some rosiness to his cheeks, a healthy tan to his skin which doesn’t at all sag from his face or arms. My imagination has no trouble picturing what an adorable little boy he must have been once. Mid forties now, I’m guessing, but I’ve always been rotten at determining people’s ages, so that says nothing.

 

(I snapped a candid photo, but felt guilty at the thought of sharing it, or even having these strangers on my camera and computer, so I deleted it.)

 

Have you any grey hairs? I’ve never noticed or looked. Does our sister? One’s never likely to notice, she keeps her hair covered most of the time. I think my hair would look rather nice with silver in. Silver and gold.

 

But what is it like, to watch your own child go grey, I wonder. I never asked Grandmamma, but perhaps she and mother talked about it. I hope so.

 

They are still out there, the pair of greys. I have no way of knowing if it is mother and son, but the sight of them did make me wonder.

 

 

 

Kellan was in my dream last night. An SUV had pulled up and I knew that I had to get in, that I had to leave and likely not come back, but I stayed outside, making the SUV wait, which it did. I didn’t even know what I was waiting for, but when my nephew came toddling up (his mother was not in sight, just the boy) I knelt in the grass and gave him a big hug, then went off to whatever duty that suburban represented.

 

I don’t hold much stock in the interpretation and analysis of dreams (as a few nights before I dreamt of duelling in shark tank), but I thought it was rather fine of me, to wait to say a final goodbye to Kellan first.

 

ARGH! No more letter writing! I need to work on the dissertation, because I’m actually starting to worry. I give myself 2 weeks to get a rough. A few days after that for editing, before I send it to my tutrix, see what she thinks.

 

Over and out.

 

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P.S. The view from my room

Categories
Books Travel Writing

Letter the Fourth

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July 2, 2014

Dear Sean,

P. S. (PreScript) I stumbled across one of those websites that have an arrangement of odd or obsolete words. I’ve scattered a few throughout this letter, but only when they are truly apt. You’ll doubt know them when you see them.)

Here begins the letter proper.

If there’s one thing being montivagant is good for (I almost want to say montivagrant) it’s that it provides ample time for introspection. Depending on the person, I’m not sure this is such a good thing. I daydream too much, I think, when my mind isn’t given a task to mull and ponder, I come up with the most ridiculous scenarios in my head that can entertain me for hours. I’m sure shepherds are either the most philosophical of people, or they are the most fanciful.

It’s a good thing I want to make my living in fiction, otherwise all this imagining would be a waste of time. It probably still is, but at least I can put it down as practicing or preparing stories.

My self-reflective moments are probably of even less use than my fantasizing.  In books, people are characterized by certain traits. I suppose that’s why they call them characters. And while I was wandering with the herd I wondered how I would categorize myself. What is a primary characteristic of mine?

Perhaps I’m the wrong person to judge, or perhaps I’m the only person to judge. Do correct me, if you think I’m wrong, or if you perceive me differently, but I feel like I’m categorized by impermanence.

To me, this is not at all a bad thing.

Yes, in the grand scheme of things we are all impermanent, but in my life, and my presence in the lives of others, I think of myself as being transitory. A series of stopgaps. I take comfort in this, though from what I’ve read, many people fear it (or at least many writers describe people so). From famous Achilles (from the Illiad, not the Odyssey) to Keats, who famously put on his tombstone a regretful (and consequently, entirely incorrect) epitaph: “here lies the one whose name was writ on water” people have wanted to make their mark, to last, to endure, to make a lasting impression or despair ever doing so. They wanted permanence, they wanted a name that would last.

Whereas a significant percentage of my life has been that of xenization. Living as a stranger in a place makes it easier to leave. I don’t mind being forgotten. I hate reading that people miss me, when I have no intention of returning. It’s a sort of rule, never to go back.

(My desire to write is not borne of a desire to extend my life, and I take comfort in noms de plume.)

I am comforted that my presence is only temporary. That I’m not a landmark but a waypoint, itinerant. Always yonderly.

When I do get my yacht someday, I think I might call it Yonderly.

But stepping away from the abstract… these last few days I’ve taken on the job of swine herd. Naturally, I still have to care for the horses morning and evening, but in the ripest hours of the afternoon, it is my responsibility to pasture magaliza pigs: 5 adults each upwards of 200 kilos, and uncountable babies. (Actually, one can count them, I’ve just never managed. They are far more charming than their parents, and much easier to lose track of.)

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I’ve come to the conclusion that swine are like people, just completely devoid of vanity.

Pigs are intelligent; an implied threat is just as effective as a hitting them, moreso, in that the great beasts remain calm instead of squealing and running off. Ah well. M says this new girl could be a good herd, and I’m not clamoring to take her place.  I like them, but they are too clever to deal with, and something about them makes me uncomfortable. It’s not like they need or want privacy but seeing them go about their business seems intrusive in a way that watching other animals doesn’t seem to be. Maybe it’s because other animals have grace and beauty, and even though I know they are not, it seems like when they move they are putting on a performance.  Pigs just carry on in such an unashamed way that makes you (meaning me) almost embarrassed for them.  I think comes from my comparing them with people, which I don’t do with other animals, apart from perhaps dogs, whom we speak to and let live with us in our homes as one of the family, who embarrass us when they lick their private parts or flatulate in from of company.

I fear what people might be like without their vanity. I could make it more noble and say pride, but I really do mean vanity. Would we bathe? Would we keep our houses clean? If we didn’t care what others thought of us, what would we give up?

This little mental exercise would no doubt reveal some obvious benefits if we lacked vanity (no one would suffer from self-esteem issues) and we might lose our desire to obtain things that show off our status, capitalism would tumble and businesses wouldn’t rule the world, but on interpersonal levels, how would we treat others if  we didn’t care how others would judge our behavior? No doubt some of us would be the same as we always are, but others of us might act as a pig. They are not, in their hearts, generous beasts. I’ve never seen a pig, when presented with food, graciously let other pigs have a share. They want all of it for themselves, if they can manage it.

What would happen if people exchanged vanity for gluttony?

All the expressions about pigs: ­greedy as a pigeating like a pigselfish pig, you swine… I never gave them much thought before but after spending so many hours with them, I have given them new consideration.

Thing is, I’m sure that other animals are just as selfish about their food, or careless about their hygiene, but they don’t get the reputation pigs did because we aren‘t holding them by our standards. So it seems I can’t be the only one who personifies them, who sees them as people.

Try as I might, I honestly can’t recall a single mention of this in Animal Farm, but I know Orwell must have made some sort of observation or comparison. Perhaps I need to reread it, knowing pigs (and history) as I do now.

In any case, the pigs unsettle me in a way. While their motives are always plain, one can never really know what they might do. Herding buffalo and horses is relaxing. Herding swine keeps me vigilant. It’s fascinating, but not how I want to spend the rest of my days.

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If herding horses or buffalos (or sheep or goats, I suppose) make one thoughtful and introspective, herding pigs concentrates ones thoughts, almost darkens them. Or at least, it does for me. Perhaps it’s because they still smell like the slaughter house. Up till recently, they were cannibalistic fed on the castoffs of the butchers’ and the abattoirs’ and their sty is still littered with bones, teeth and bits of bone that they didn’t eat (or perhaps they did and that’s how they came out again.)

No more about swine.

July 4th

Currently I’m in Kolmir. It’s a small city for a conference that I’m not attending. L is, though, and she booked accommodation that has two beds, so she invited me along as a treat. 6 hours away by bus and I’m still in the same region but the journey was worth it just for 3 days of running water: hot showers and flushing toilets. She knew I wanted to get work done and said this was an opportunity to write without the distraction of the ranch, but I’m afraid my first 6 hours to myself was spent in sleeping for an additional 2 hours in the morning, then watching the BBC adaptation of Death Comes to Pemberly (one of the few examples of the film version being better than the book.) It’s 5pm now and I sit down to write but do this instead. Oh well. At least it’s something.

Let me tell you about my ride the other day, and I know what you might be thinking (perhaps you are not, no doubt our mother would be though): riding with a fractured foot?

Short answer, yes. I keep them wrapped and I’ve got the trick of walking on it in a way that doesn’t sting so badly. Besides, spending the whole day in the saddle is better than a day walking, and I was only thrown once this time.

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I was on Zitra, a lovely mare with the sweetest filly of the whole herd. She’d never been ridden before and didn’t understand the commands, but after 10 hours of riding she had learned. We rode through many neighbouring villages, making a tour of the old wooden churches of the area.

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The most exhilarating part of the trip was when everyone (L, Ivan and Angelika) had got down from their mounts to take a break. I stayed on because jumping down hurt the foot, so I did it as little as possible. Grovny, L’s horse, just decided to run away, when usually she’s the most obedient and has been ridden the most. L ran after her and the others fought to control their own mounts.

I was still atop Zitra and when L didn’t come back soon, I went after them. If L couldn’t catch up to Grovny by running, surely I could catch up at a gallop.

And gallop we did. Zitra may have many faults as a riding horse, but she is fast.

Grovny had disappeared into the Oak Forest. I’m not being dramatic or sentimental, that’s its name, and Sean, it is beautiful. The oaks stand far enough apart that grass can grow on the forest floor, and apart from some poised blue flowers that I could’t name even if I’d had time to look closely, the entire floor was covered with green grass so heave and tall that it flopped over in all directions, like waves. I wish I could have taken a photo, but I know it wouldn’t have done the place justice, but you would have really liked this place.

It was obviously a wild place, but there as something elegant about the waves of grass, and how artistically the light filtered through the oak leaves to highlight the green floor in patches, truly like a little green sea.

Anyway, I’d never tried to gallop with Zitra but she did famously. It was probably the most exhilarating thing I’ve experienced, racing through that forest alone on Zitra, an untrained horse, but she was made to run and I, at that moment, felt made to ride her.

I stopped to listen and call for L, but I heard no response. When Zitra realized her baby hadn’t (couldn’t possibly have) followed, she was upset. Back from where we’d come in the far distance I could barely hear a young whinny, and Zitra whinnied back.

The second gallop wasn’t exactly my idea, though I had considered returning to the others to wait for L, but Zitra made the final decision and she raced us back.

This time, even faster.

Now I’ve been thrown before by mothers frantic to get back to their babies (my being just an unnecessary burden), and this is what I dreaded when she took off, and the trees whizzed by so close I could have reached out and slapped them (or they could slap me, rather) as we passed.

I remember thinking “If she throws me off at this speed, that’s the end.”

And I was okay with that. Yes, one the one hand, I was certainly aware and unhappy about the possibility, but on the other hand, I was urging her to go even faster. Part of me had to know, needed to push as far as we could go. There was something romantically fatalistic about it. (I’m sure I could make some parallel to Icarus, but I shan’t. He didn’t expect his fate, and mine didn’t materialize.)

In short, I felt like I was actually breathing. 

But she kept me the whole time, maybe she forgot I was even there, I felt so light. Or perhaps she had accepted me as a part of her. In any case, we exited the Oak Forest as one, a whole and healthy organism, and met her baby again.

We eventually got back together with L, and after that, going home, we tried galloping a few more times, but it was never as nice as those first two time. I was still aware of the saddle and stirrups, it wasn’t as fast, her gait as graceful. It would be a pity if I never got to experience that level of perfect galloping again, but I’m very glad I was able to experience it in the first place.

The only regrets I have of that day is that you could not see the forest (and getting thrown earlier in the day, but I landed on my side and not on my foot, and no (more) broken bones, so I can’t even say I regret it all that much.)

And now, a little rant about useless persons.

Tanya, is a bicyclist, part of a touring group, but she and a 17 year old boy didn’t want to go through the mountains and asked f they could stay at the ranch for a few days. Strange, it seems longer than that, but you know what they say about fish and unwanted guests. I’m only glad that she’s gone and that I have this lovely mini-vacation to restore me. I will give but a few examples of how she bothered me. That’s the worst part, is that I know that I could be the bigger person and just let it go, and the fact that I’m annoyed is mostly my fault, but this knowledge did nothing to change the fact that I felt this way, and giving vent to my frustrations will relieve me, I hope.

First day it was just bossiness in the kitchen. Fair enough, I’m not hugely attached to the way I boil rice and if she has a better way, that’s okay with me. The next morning however, she strolls in at 830 for a late breakfast (we all breakfasted late) and afterward, when I’d just sat down with my book and tea, she says that perhaps I should take her to the shops in the village, to show her around, because it’s not good for me to sit around all day, indicating my book, cup and air of imminent relaxation.

I wanted to rant at her that I’d been up since six am, capturing a strange and panicking mare, getting that mare back to her own farm, capturing Igor’s bull, getting the bull into a truck (think Hatari) and of course, taken Leyla out and applied her medicine. (Think giving medicine to a reluctant child is difficult, try applying medicine to a reluctant horse.)

Oh, I ought to mention that abattoirs here, even though the owners are very rich, have not invested in humane technology for killing beasts. They still go for the ‘guy with a hammer’ practice. The bull did not go down quickly. Poor Igor. That bull could have grown 200 more kilos, but he was so afraid of the villagers’ hatred that he had him slaughtered early. (This is actually the same bull that came after me that one day, when Sikan saved me.)

Igor gave use some of the meat.

Oh, and I’d also fed the rabbits and seen to Ina and her baby (who were sold a few days ago, alas. She’s to be some poor cart horse, when she is clearly meant to be ridden.)

In any case, I’d already broken a sweat twice in the hours she’d still been asleep and then she all but accuses me of laziness for wanting to enjoy a chapter of my book and a cup of tea.

Grr!

July 11, 2014

So, it’s been quite a while since the last entry to this letter. Holiday ended and we returned to the ranch. We’ve had several new workers come, Ina and her baby have been sold, Leyla was taken away, so I felt like most of my duties have vanished, which isn’t such a bad thing given my current condition. Day before yesterday it was raining, and we’d let the pigs into the buffalo paddock, as they needed to be watered. But the shepherd brought the buffalo back 3 hours early (probably because he wanted out of the rain) and, as the vulgar phrase goes, all hell broke loose.

I’m not sure if you were aware, but water buffalo and giant pigs seem to be mortal enemies. The buffaloes hate the pigs, and any time the two species meet, there tends to be a bit of a premature slaughter. While the pigs are 200 kilos, the buffaloes can still send them flying, rip them open with their horns. The pigs, while they have wicked sharp teeth, don’t seem to be much of a match for them. They are still remarkably stubborn and don’t know when to fight and when to flee. In any case, the shepherd put the buffalo in with the pigs. (I originally wrote fubbalo, there, rather than just correct it and move on I leave this parenthetical note about it, and challenge you to imagine what a fubbalo might be.)

It was all hands on deck. We, meaning Elisa (Ukrainian), Julian (German), Luke (English), L and I, all ran to the paddock to try to get the buffaloes away from the pigs, and chase the swine out of the paddock.

(Sidenote: I’ve renamed Elvis, the large male. He’s now Wurstie, little sausage. And speaking of names, the rabbits Somerset and Maughn remain, and the three babies are Willow, Clover, and Thyme. Their mother is Beatrix. Charmain is the largest and most consistently frightened rabbit, and Eglantine, the large rabbit that has savaged 3 people now, has been renamed Cottage Pie. The others laugh at my naming of all the animals, as they are going to be eaten, but I won’t be here when that time comes. So they get names.

Anyway, back on topic, as I was chasing pigs, I slipped in the muck (I like to tell myself it was mud, but I hold no real illusions as to what it actually was) and my ankle exploded. At least, that’s how it felt. I think it was more of a mutiny. I shouldn’t have been running anyway, with the stress fractures in that foot, but desperate times…

After spending ages hobbling on a stick the quarter mile to the house, I spent the rest of the day with my foot up. Didn’t sleep because it stabbed and throbbed all night. About four in the morning I tried to go to the outhouse, failed astonishingly. As I sat in the rain on an old stump, I admitted that I might need a doctor. When the rest of the house awoke, I asked M if this were possible. He said sure, take Elisa to the clinic in the village. I pointed out that I couldn’t even make it to the toilet, how was I supposed to get to the village.

Enter Igor. Wondeful, lovely, Igor.

He drove me to the city, Khust, called the doctor ahead of time, helped me hop right in, saw to it that I was seen immediately. (Igor is well connected in the region.)

He really made the whole thing smooth and metaphorically painless.

I haven’t paid anything. Igor took care of it, though I doubted he paid much either, as the doctors are personal friends of his (and get free cheese and milk from the farm.)

My first cast. No one has signed it.

M has drawn a buffalo on it, though, which is nice.

The doctor who made the cast was actually the kindest of all the ones I visited. (The radiologist was the cruelest. She knew she was x-raying for a broken ankle but didn’t appear to be conscious that slamming around and twisting said ankle might be painful for the patient.)

And I actually cried. Not vocally, but while the doctor was trying to get my foot into position (stubborn thing didn’t want to) tears were rolling down my face. To my enormous embarrassment, the doctor saw and said, “I know I’m hurting you, but there has to be pain before it gets better.”

I knew that, obviously, but it didn’t stop the stupid tears.

Still, he was the nicest and gentlest doctor I’ve ever had, and told him so.

When they’d asked if I wanted something for the pain I said yes, more readily than I ever have in my life. I’ve always felt that pain serves a purpose, keeps you from doing things your body shouldn’t do. But this time I agreed (the cast would prevent me from doing things I shouldn’t just as effectively as pain, I reasoned). When they brought out a needle and the nurse slapped my behind, gesturing that I should roll over, I declined and apologized. I’d take the pain after all.

Later in the afternoon Igor came to the house again, this time with crutches for me. They are old, but fine. They creak but work just as any other pair. The only real difference is that instead of the foamy padding that tucks under the arm is instead just the wood covered in sheepskin. I feel bad though, because apparently Julian had spent the afternoon making a pair for me. (He’s been wood carving since he was a boy.)

Anyway, no more running after horses or pigs or buffalo or anything remotely fun.

I spent the entire next boiling summer day in front of the wood-burning stove in the kitchen boiling plums for jam, removing pits from the melted plums, and stirring for hours and hours, adding sugar.  Next day was much the same. Eventually, the process was finished and we filled dozens of jars with plum jam. I sweated more inside stirring than I did running after animals.

In these last few days, I’ve had plum jam at every meal, even as a syrup on ice cream.

In any case, it’s now time to write letters and hopefully my portfolio too. (I received an email yesterday from my tutor, filling me with guilt.)

The cast helps enormously. I’ve got medicine to take at breakfast and supper and even though I know it’s a bother to be casted up and crutched, it’s such an improvement from before that I can’t help be grateful. Also, my x-ray (which they developed in a traditional darkroom, kind of neat, though the hospital itself was a gloomily soviet building) makes for a nice wall decoration for the kitchen/sitting room. Though I hope it doesn’t disturb future workers.

Thing is, with me unable to do any hard work, I feel useless. I had intended to stay until August but I might just go back to Budapest and be an invalid. I had hoped to go to Georgia and Armenia (after Kiev and Odessa) but I don’t want to be hobbling through the Caucuses. Hobbled. That is the world. I’ve been hobbled. Montivagant no longer…

July 14th, 2014

I have finished only 4 books in the last month, and that includes A Slight Trick of the Mind, that I read yesterday and today. Pitiful. Pitiful.

I think it would be foolish to attempt going to Georgia and Armenia when I can’t confidently get around. Last night I retired early and spent a few hours thinking about what would do. I’ll go back to Budapest as soon as I can hobble. (I’d go sooner only I feel I have to give the crutches back to Igor.) I’ll find a good stick and work my way to Budapest, where I will concentrate on my Portfolio (it gets a capital, owing to it’s importance in my life). Because who knows, maybe I would be too distracted in Georgia as well and/or start something new. While it is a bummer, I know that going back to Budapest is a wise, if ultimately duller option. Still, finishing dissertation stuff is priority.

I no longer feel grateful. With a broken foot, it’s a struggle just to make tea or go wash my hands, I feel rather stuck, which is probably the most depressing situation I could find myself. I had planned to be here through August, and now that I ­can’t leave, the desire-need is overwhelming. It’s only cast and crutches but out here in the middle of nowhere, it might as well be a ball and chain.

Powerless in the face of this driving compulsion (that I’ve been a slave to all my adult life) I grow despondent, and morose, and all the more tired by pretending to the rest of the house that I’m not despondent and morose. I’d like to seclude myself in a hostel or hotel someplace where I can be true to myself and just grump.

I do my best writing when I’m down, maybe this will be the making of my final portfolio, if I could only get out of here. I have no doubt that my inability to maneuver will continue to sufficiently taint my mood in Budapest and that my mood, combined with the location, will leave me scripturient.

Your limpier, grumpier sister.

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~K

P. S.

Apologies for the long delay between letters. I suppose it’s due partially to laziness and partly to distraction.  I’ll write again if/once I’ve relocated.